The End of the Year (as we know it)

(Sung to the tune of REM)

I had to go into Kathmandu at the week before Christmas, not something I particularly enjoy doing very much, but this time a necessity. However, on the way in, the road was closed. We managed to get through, Achut talking his way past the police as normal. As we went along the road, rocks and bricks were strewn all over, riot police were walking towards the river and groups of people were gathering. Not favourable circumstances for an easy ride. We reached the hill leading down to Kupondole and were met with riot police forming a barrier across the road. Just past them, in the middle of the road was a group of several hundred people, burning tyres, bricks in hand. We turned and took a back way into Kathmandu.

However, on our return, the bridge across the river was completely blocked. No-one was going anywhere. I was late, and needed to get to my office, and Achut had to get back into Thamel. So I jumped off the bike and told Achut to turn round and go back home, whilst I walked to my office. After crossing the bridge I understood the reason for the jam. Riot police were turning round all traffic, sending them back into Kathmandu. Just past them, another 20 or so police were in negotiations with an increasing rowdy mob of protesters. People were standing on the pavements, watching, not quite knowing what to do. I joined them. I saw the road I wanted to go down and avoid it, however, the protesters were between me and the road. Would it be safe enough to walk there?

The police negotiating with the protesters
I gradually inched down the road, trying with my 6ft3 frame to hide behind Nepali people, as befitting a brave and courageous person. As I reached the junction for my road, another larger protest also reached the junction for the road, shouting slogans against the Maoists. There seemed to be plenty of people just standing and watching, so I thought I wold join them, making sure I knew my escape route if anything happened. But nothing did at the time. And so I climbed from the river via the back roads to my office.

The protest in full flow
When I returned to my office, I found out that it was victims of the Maoist atrocities, during their self-proclaimed 'People's War'. These people had their husbands, wives, brothers, sisters or children abducted and murdered by the Maoists, now in power in Nepal. In a way, it is a testament to the Nepali people that they can forgive the Maoists for their previous activities - just to point out the Nepal Army were also guilty of performing similar acts. However, it makes wonder, how much about these abductions and murders did the higher echelons of the party knew. If they sanctioned it, then they have blood on their hands. If they didn't know, then they have no control over their party - which could explain a lot of the current problems. And should people with the blood of 13,000 be allowed to lead a country? But then there is also reconciliation, an important part of peace. It's a tough problem. Sometimes I'm glad I'm just an engineer.

We had a great quiet Christmas here in Nepal. I was invited out to an ex-pat's house on Christmas Eve for a get together and carols, which really got me into the spirit of things. Christmas morning I woke up, realising I forgot to put out my stocking and mince pie for Father Christmas. D'oh. Not being at home also meant that I couldn't wake up stupidly early and annoy my parents, just as I do every year.

There was a big Christmas program in St Xavier's School here in Lalitpur, but I didn't go in the end as I was waiting for Saru to turn up. However, they say 7,000 people did - mostly Nepali - which is great news for the church here. We had a normal daal bhaat for morning meal, but after Saru came, the cooking went into overdrive. Pilau rice, meat for us meat eaters, and some most amazing pickle from lopsi - like a lychee, but less sweet and an edible skin.

With my little christmas tree, I put the presents I had bought for all my Nepali family under it, and then when 15.10 came - the time the Queen's speech in the UK would finish, I passed out the presents. Rachhu surprised me by giving me a model of Krishna Mandir from Patan Durbar Square as well.

In the evening, we lit candles under the christmas tree. I told the christmas story, and explained the 5 candles used in the advent crown. Then we all sat around the tree trying to warm our hands as much as possible on the heat from the candles.

The christmas tree and candles
Boxing Day, and Saru left in the morning with me. I made my way to the office - the problem with Nepal is it has its own national festivals, and they certainly aren't ours. So our office was open, and I thought I had better go in.

And so, tomorrow I'm off to the plains - the Terai - to Didi's house and really looking forward to it. I promised I would go to her house a long time ago, but for one reason and another haven't made it there since May. It should also be a lot warmer there. Wahey!

SAM

Here's some gratuitous pretty pictures from earlier this year which I don't think I've shown before. (And by the way, that red picture of the mountains was taken from my roof, not a painting, i can assure you.)

The sun starting to peak out from behind the land, as seen from Poon Hill
The view of Macchapuchhre - Fishtail - from Tadapani on a clear and cold morning
The sun setting over Lalitpur - a fitting way to close out the year, no?

Getting into the swing of things

So, I'm back at my office after Mum's trip, and, apart from a week away 'in the field', I'm slowly building into a routine. In the morning, I eat breakfast after the usual cup of tea and then head in to the office, taking Bhanja to school on the way. At lunch time, we all head out to a small roti-shop, the Nepali equivalent of a sandwich bar, for a chapati and vegetable curry. Then just as it starts to get dark, I make my way home again. It's good to have a little bit of routine again in this most unpredictable and unorganised place.

The field trip was to go and help to start a social survey in an area where a new Hydropower plant will be built. This meant a day's bus ride followed by several hours walking to get to our base. We then had to walk to all the affected villages and talk to the local residents about the new plant. It was very interesting to see people off the tourist trail, see their scepticism about development plans and their enthusiasm about the possibility of a new source of income in a mainly agricultural landscape.

The landscape in the affected area was amazing
One village we visited was a typical Gurung village. It was very like Ghandruk, a village on the Poon Hill trek, but for one major difference. It felt more real. Ghandruk had been developed by the government as a model Gurung village, while the one we saw was left alone by all development, so it seemed. The children in the evening played football on the terraced fields on the outside of the village - a passing game was all but impossible due to the steps in the surface. And very few of the people there had seen foreigners before, so it caused a large amount of staring. They also performed one of their 'cultural programs' for us, singing songs and dancing for a few rupees.

Naiche, a typical Gurung village, that felt like something out of Lord of the Rings
So, as Christmas was approaching, I wanted to try and do something to celebrate it. So, Bhanja and I made a small nativity scene, and some paper chains as well. I bought a plastic christmas tree, and we made some decorations to put on it as well. Hopefully, Saru will be here for Christmas day, so although I won't be with my family in the UK, I'll be with my Nepali family. When we were making the nativity scene, Bhanja was colouring in the people and asked for the brown colour. I asked why he needed the brown, as he was on the angel. He said for the face. Not pink, brown. This might sound a strange little thing to remember, but when I was small, people had pink faces. For Bhanja however people have brown faces. So, in our nativity scene, we have a brown faced angel, Jesus, Mary and Joseph, shepherds and wise-men.

The Christmas tree and nativity scene
Walking back from my office the other day I saw a midget - he was riding around on a quad. In Nepal, the land of short people, midget's are titchy.

Thanks to everyone who's emailed me recently. I'm sorry I've been very lazy in replying to them, but I do read everything. I just forget to write back...

Anyway, Merry Christmas one and all.

SAM

(Here's a rare photo of me, just to show I'm still alive, alert, awake enthusiastic)

Tourist Time - Part 2

So, as most people do, we spent a large part of time in the Kathmandu Valley. Like most countries capital cities, it isn't the best area of the country by any means, but it is convenient and has good transport links and lots of history.

We first visited Kathmandu Durbar Square in the middle of Kathmandu. It was a good place to start as it gave a good flavour of Nepal - a manic taxi ride followed by temples, hawkers, living goddesses and tiny streets packed with people and motorbikes. Our first stop was the Kumari Ghar, the house of the living goddess for Kathmandu, who is supposed to represent the God Taleju. She is a pre-pubescent girl selected from a set of highly ritualised conditions. Her view is considered by many Nepalis to be a blessing. After wandering through and looking at the many temples built in the square we moved to the tourist ghetto of Thamel, for a bit of shopping and a look-see.

The Kumari Ghar, unfortunately the Kumari didn't bless us with her presence, but still a quiet place in the middle of the bustling Kathmandu Durbar Square
The next day, Saru joined us for a walk around Patan, starting at Patan Dhoka, the gate where the peoples movement of 1990 held its ground, and moved on to the historic, and patently more pretty than Kathmandu's version, Patan Durbar Square via a number of little temples, hidden in nooks and crannies all along the side streets.

Saru and me outside one of the temples in Patan Durbar Square
After returning from Pokhara, we had a day of big temple and stupa visits. Auntie Kathy had decided to stay in the hotel, as her leg was a bit sore after the exertions in the the mountains. So we visited Pashupathinath, Boudha and Swayambhu all in one day through a large number of taxi rides. It was good fun, and interesting to see all the temples one after each other, seeing how each differed in it's own way.

Pashupatinath Temple - the place for Hindu pilgrimage in Kathmandu

Boudhanath Stupa - the centre of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal
I had to return to my office for a day, so Rachhu very kindly agreed to Mum and Auntie Kathy around some of the bigger temples in Patan and the museum there. When we all returned from our various places, we found Aama and Buwa had cooked a large number of sel roti - doughnut like bread from rice flour. So we sat on the veranda in the afternoon sun and ate warm sel roti. Bliss.

Mum and Auntie Kathy at the Golden Temple

Aama and Buwa cooking sel roti - my favourites!
Bhaktapur is the third of the cities in the valley, once a kingdom's capital but now a well preserved piece of history, thanks to lots of foreign aid. We walked around, fending off people trying to get us to visit their Thangka painting schools and potential guides, and found our own route to the places we wanted to go.

Auntie Kathy, Rachhu and Mum in Bhaktapur next to the 'Large Shiva Lingas'
On the last full day in Nepal, we took everyone to Dakshinkali, the temple dedicated to the scariest of Hindu deities. Normally the place runs with blood, from the animal sacrifices that take place there. However, we were lucky and none rook place when we were there. We returned by the fish infested, snake worshipping lake in Taudhaha. As a bit of fun for Mum and Auntie Kathy before they left, Rachhu gave them a hennaed hand, traditional decoration for Nepali women.

Everyone at Dakshinkali
Rachhu giving Mum a hennaed hand
And as quickly as it started, Mum and Auntie Kathy were gone again. It was fun being a tourist again, seeing other foreigners and, of course, spending time with Mum.

SAM